Thursday, July 21, 2016

Magnificent Glacier Bay to Petersburg

We've just arrived in Ketchikan and have officially begun our trek south.

The last three weeks have been a whirlwind on Seaducktress. First, we took Charley and Liz to Glacier Bay (we celebrated Charley's birthday in Gustavus), then Simon, Faith and our granddaughter Hala, travelled with us from Hoonah through whale territory to Petersburg, where we celebrated Simon's birthday. Finally, Marty and Patti joined us in Petersburg and on down to Ketchikan, but that  is the subject of the next post. (hint: BEARS!)

We've been checking in with the world periodically, and every time I do it, I ask myself, why bother? And so, I'm not going to comment on the craziness that seems to have taken hold of the country, except to say once again that spending time in remote areas, immersed in natural beauty, is the best antidote I know, providing the space to remind myself how the vast majority of humans on this planet are good, and that politicians and the media can only make hay sowing fear if we choose to buy in to it. So many words have been written about fear, about how most of us so rarely experience true fear (e.g. a bear charging you), or worry about the things we should worry about (using a seatbelt), and instead spend time fearful of potential (and highly unlikely) future events. As a physician, I know that living in fear if bad for your physical and emotional health, and as a student of history I know how effectively despots have used fear to bend populations to their will.

Yikes - I said I wasn't going to comment! Enough of that. On to the main show: the pictures!


We were just sitting there minding our own business when this pod of orcas passed us. I loved the starkness of their dorsal fins, slicing through he waters, demonstrating complete dominion over their environment.

About six or eight breeding pairs of sea otters were introduced back into Glacier Bay a decade ago or more ago. Practically every one we saw (and we saw a lot) had a pup on her belly, so it worked.

Charley and Liz kayaking in Blue Mouse Cove.

Charley and Liz

The weather wasn't without a bit of drama

In Bartlett Cove we decided to compete with the bears, picking blueberries from incredibly abundant bushes in the forest. This was next morning.

You're lucky I'm not subjecting you to a dozen Tufted Puffin pictures. But you gotta love this goofy little guy.

Marjorie Glacier, one of the most active in Glacier Bay. We anchored by ourselves for the night, about a half mile to the left, among the "bergie bits", listening to the thunder of the calving glacier. Scary and magnificent.

I always think of our friend Jim Whittaker when I see ice fields like this. Can't imagine climbing among the glacial seracs. This was taken with a long lens, but we could see it from our boat!

At anchor we were endlessly entertained by flocking kittiwakes. Love their black legs.

We offered assistance to a boat having mechanical trouble, and he gave us a bottle of his home made citrus IPA beer. It was outrageously good! Thanks Shenanigans. It went great with stir-fried chicken.

Sunset from our anchorage

We checked out Reed Glacier, which is one of the many receding glaciers in the park, no long calving into the ocean

A drone view from Reed Glacier out towards the rest of the park.

I've photographed this glacier-carved valley before. I never get tired of imagining the mile high wall of ice which originally carved it.



North Sandy Cove, our last anchorage in Glacier Bay

Sea Lion Rookery on South Marble island. Glenda spotted this gal scratching her ear.

All right. One more.

Simon, Hala and Boat Bear in a moment of reflection.

Tennakee Warm Springs - on our way to Petersburg

I love the delight on Hala's face as she sees a whale.

We ran into what seemed like 100 whales in Frederick Sound. Several breached near our boat, but I was slow with the camera. So you'll have to be satisfied with backlit spouts and whale backs for now.








3 comments:

  1. I love Glacier Bay and hope that we can enjoy it again with you two......Alaska is a magical place. Water, rock, trees, sky! All of it beautiful and magical. Thank you P & G for another adventure and relaxing joy.

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  2. So beautifully evocative of what we experienced with you on our part of the trip. Thank you both for giving us such a soulful gift.

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  3. Charley and I were moved by our experience in Glacier Bay, and also felt renewed by the wild places, and time with dear ones. Peter, your words and photos brought it all back to us! Thank you for expressing yourself so beautifully and skillfully.

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