Fury Cove

(Follow our track by clicking on this link: Track Seaducktress)

(I'm uploading blog from a very remote site with VERY slow internet, so have made all the pictures small. Will enlarge them later in the trip.)

If a boat’s wake were less permanent, more like tracks in sand, then I believe Seaducktress would have worn a deep groove in the Salish Sea and beyond, from our many passages up through the Canadian Gulf Islands, the upper reaches of the Straits of Georgia, into the Discovery Islands, the Broughton archipelago, the small town of Port McNeill near the top of Vancouver Island, and then the big jump across Queen Charlotte Sound into the remote North Coast of British Columbia. As I write this, I’m sitting in lovely Fury Cove with its white shell beaches and view west towards the ocean. The first phase of our journey has been completed and now we sit on the doorstep of some of the most remote territory we’ll visit.

Michael stowing fender, leaving home

Weighing anchor at Ganges

Canoe racing outside Comox

Log boom south of Campbell River

Ticking off the nights so far: anchor near Ganges on Saltspring Island, tie up to the commercial breakwater in Comox on Vancouver Island, anchor in remote Chameleon Bay in the Discovery Islands, stay at the dock in Lagoon Cove and then the dock in Kwatsi bay, sleeping to sound of a large waterfall hidden nearby in the forest, at the dock in Port McNeill to do laundry and grocery shopping, and then Fury Cove after an exciting open crossing in gale warnings.

Deciduous splender in beautiful Chameleon Bay

Fish farm amongst magnificence of Discovery Islands

Tribune Channel, heading to Kwatsi Bay in Broughtons

Kwatsi Bay

The most exciting moments so far were the on again off again decision to make the crossing of Queen Charlotte Sound, a 10 hour voyage across open seas. The next four days were promising near gales and 9 foot swells, but the closer we studied the forecasts and looked at the satellite images, the more convinced we were that there might be a short window of calmer conditions. Thus, we departed the dock at 4:40 and headed northwest from Port McNeill. The winds were calm and the current with us until we reached the beginnings of swells near the far end of Queen Charlotte Strait. And then we were in the thick of it, and…for the next five hours relatively calm winds and gentle six foot swells with long seven second periods. Piece of cake. As predicted, the winds kicked up about 1pm, but we only had another 1.5 hours to go, so the chop and occasional 9 footers seemed less ominous, coming at the end rather than the beginning of our journey.

For those who haven’t done it, it’s hard to describe the joy and peace of arriving in a well protected and beautiful bay after the anxiety of a crossing. The sun came out and the white beaches shone like a tropical atoll as we grilled salmon with asparagus and quinoa, while enjoying a lovely bottle of Layer Cake Shiraz. Piece of cake.

Lighthouse north end of Malcolm Island

Sun coming up soon on Queen Charlotte Strait

The white beaches of Fury Cove. We made it!

And so, my mind at peace, I take a moment to wax philosophical, how the planning, and uncertainties, and yes, moments of fear that are part of cruising the Inside Passage—how all these are so enlivening when compared to the normal humdrum of life. It’s palpable among us (Glenda, Michael, Jane, and me), how we’ve all made the transition during this first week, from land dwellers to ocean explorers, shaving years off our psyches, unleashing an enhanced sense of wonder and joy at simply being alive. This is all good. Very good indeed.

Michael and Jane all smiles

Lagoon Cove